TUESDAY// Leaving København
Alexander took the metro with me to the airport, and was sweet enough to walk me all the way to security. I left Copenhagen calm and looking forward to my trip. It’s wasn’t really sad leaving, knowing I’ll be back so soon.
Once I got on my flight to Madrid it started to hit me that I was going to see Eliane that night. I’ve made a lot of new friends at DIS, but its not the same as seeing a best friend from home. We totally did the cheesy drop-your-bags-and-run-and-embrace thing, but neither of us cried which was good!!! It was late so we just spent the night catching up, but it was so so good to see her– even in a new city, I immediately felt comfortable.
WEDNESDAY // Córdoba
Wednesday morning we walked around the city before Eliane had afternoon class. We crossed the bridge leading to Calahorra Tower, and found that there was a museum inside! Eliane had never been, so we did that until she started feeling ill. We hurried back to the apartment, and since she had a pretty high fever, we spent the afternoon in, napping, listening to the rain, and watching movies. We ended the day with pancakes for dinner and hope that she would feel better in the morning.
THURSDAY // Córdoba + Málaga
Thursday morning I had planned to visit the Córdoba Mezquita-Cathedral while Eliane was in class, so her illness didn’t effect things much. The incredible work of architecture has a rich history– The site was originally a small Catholic Basilica. When Muslims conquered Spain in 711, the church was first divided into Muslim and Christian halves. This sharing arrangement of the site lasted until 784, when the Christian half was purchased by the Emir ‘Abd al-Rahman I, who then proceeded to demolish the original structure and build the grand mosque of Córdoba on its ground. When Córdoba returned to Christian rule in 1236 during the Reconquista, the building was converted to a Roman Catholic church. Many mosques were destroyed then, but the Córdoba Mezquita was so incredible that the Catholics decided to keep the original structure, inserting a Renaissance cathedral nave into the center instead.
The entire structure was beautiful and completely unique from any other work of architecture I had ever seen before. As much as I enjoyed spending time with Eliane, it was rather nice to visit the site by myself, the experience reassuring me that I would be fine on my own in Málaga. My phone died on my way back to the apartment, so I got a little lost and ran a little late, but we made it to the train station in plenty of time. I just barely missed Evan, but was happy Eliane was finally getting to see him after 4 months.
The train to Malaga was short, only an hour, and I was too hyped to sleep. The airbnb was located so close to the beach, just as the description had said, but even more beautiful than I had imagined. The waves fell gently over the dark sand, and the water turned purple and the sun dipped below the horizon, coloring the clouds a blazing orange. I walked up and down for nearly an hour, interrupted only by a tiny dog chasing my shadow across the sand. I was so overwhelmed with happiness and gratitude that I couldn’t stop smiling. Once dusk arrived, I walked back along the tiled pathway, noting how similar the city appeared to the beaches in south florida– similar architectural motifs, similar urban organization, and similar gorgeous stretch of beach. I love the ocean, and swear to never again live so landlocked as I do in Vermont.
I stopped at the supermarket for groceries, cooked myself dinner, and met my host, Esperanza. She is very kind and accommodating, and I feel very comfortable and safe here in her home. I went to bed early, excited for the adventures to come in the next day.
FRIDAY // Málaga
Friday morning I got up, intending to run as the sun rose, but the rain convinced me to go back to sleep for another hour instead. Eventually, I got out the door, and started the 30 minute walk to the area of the city where most of the sight-seeing was. My Airbnb was actually rather far from the city center– I knew the city would be louder at night and less safe, and I really preferred to be closer to the beach anyway. The walk was nice as well, as the weather was warm and sunny as soon as the rain clouds cleared. I decided to go to Alcazaba first, an old palace connected to the town’s old fortress, Gibraltar, built during the Hammudid dynasty of the early 11th century.
The hike was easy, and provided a gorgeous view overlooking the city and beyond that, the ocean. Next, I explored the interior of the palace, completely impressed with the detailing. Like Córdoba, much of the architecture in Málaga was Arabesque in style, and I was glad to get to see more of it.
Hungry and a bit tired from the hike, I decided to stop to eat a bit at a cafe across from Alcazaba. It was a little intimidating, sitting at a table by myself, but there were a couple other people doing the same so I felt less self conscious. Of course, both those people were joined by others shortly after I sat down, but I thought it would be weird if I suddenly and quickly got up and left before ordering, so I stuck it out. I asked for a cappuccino and tortilla española, and people watched as I ate. The coffee here is stronger and more bitter, but I like it that way. And to my surprise, my €2.50 tortilla was probably the best I’d had in my entire life (sorry mommy and abuelita!)
Re-energized, I made my way to the Picasso Museum. The museum itself was really beautiful– plain white walls and light sand colored stone floors that reflected the light and framed picasso’s works perfectly. Most of the artwork was from his later years, including the last piece he ever painted, finished the day before he passed. The ticket included an audio tour walkie-talkie thing, so I learned a lot more about him while I was there. In addition to the Picasso collection is an exhibit space, that day featuring the work of Joaquín Torres-García. I hadn’t known of him before visiting the museum (or had learned but forgot) so it was really nice that the museum documented the evolution of his work and personal style throughout his life.
Next, I walked to the Museo de Vidrio y Cristal de Málaga. I was quickly led upstairs where I joined an older couple received a tour in English from the owner of the house and extensive collection. This guy was hilarious. For over an hour he entertained us with stories about individual pieces, his own preferences in art and glass, his many travels, and his apparently eccentric and very wealthy family. Near the middle, he told me I “looked like I could play the piano,” prompting me to play a few bars of Für Elise. I guess he wasn’t expecting that, but he was so happy he insisted on taking my picture at the piano. I also got to practice my Danish there, as the older couple on the tour were Danish! They were really funny, and seemed to be enjoying themselves very much. Overall, the mood was happy and comfortable, much to the credit of our very personable guide. The museum is only 6 years old and not well known by the locals, so to anyone reading this, please be sure to go if you’re ever in Málaga! Seriously one of the most fun and unique experiences I’ve had in my travels, and the house was gorgeous as well!
It was around 4pm when I started making my way back to my Airbnb. This was a good time to head home, as most places close for siesta, and I extended my trip by walking along the coast, which was as beautiful as always.
SATURDAY // Málaga + Ribeira
Saturday morning I dragged myself out of bed to see the sunrise at 8:23 before I began the rest of my day. It was pretty miserable at the time, but the view of the sun coming up was worth it. The sky was a cornflower blue, just like the crayola crayon, before turning a pale yellow with the suns rays. The surf was a lot rougher this morning as well, and I watched the waves for nearly an hour, mesmerized. I eventually made myself leave, knowing I had to pack, but it was a really pleasant morning and made me a bit sad to be leaving so soon.
I quickly ate and packed my things before setting off the the Contemporary Art Center. I had read the night before that it was free and relatively small, so it seemed like a great activity to spend an hour on on the morning before I had to catch a cab to the airport. The museum housed its rotating collection, as well as a special exhibit by Mark Ryden. The exhibit was cool, but definitely makes the viewer uncomfortable. Or at least, I was a bit uncomfortable, looking at the paintings of creepy, doe-eyed little girls. His work is very interesting, but This article describes it far better than I could hope to.
The sky was grey when I exited, and I walked home quickly in the drizzle. I made it in plenty of time to get my stuff, and thank Esperanza for making me feel welcome and comfortable in her home.
Then taxi to airport, some confusion in the Málaga airport (its small but poorly organized, or I’m just dumb) and the finally I was in the air on my way to Santiago. I looked for Abuelo the whole walk from the plane to baggage claim, unsure where I would find him, but then he was there standing with all the other people waiting for their loved ones to arrive. It was so good to see him! Abuelita wasn’t feeling well so she had stayed home, so I got to talk to just Abuelo the hour car ride from Santiago to Riviera.
It was nice to see Abuelita as well. She had cooked dinner while Abuelo was picking me up, and insisted that I eat even though I would be going to dinner later in case I “didn’t like the food.” Classic.
SUNDAY // Ribeira
Sunday morning I went for a walk with Abuelita. According to her, she usually goes for a walk after church (which we skipped that morning! Nice!) to talk with her friends, and then she goes to the local bar/café for a Vermouth cocktail. Abuelo joined us at the bar after the Real Madrid game ended, and had a cocktail as well. Since it was about 1:00 pm, I opted for coffee instead.
We went home around 15:00 for lunch. We ate together, and then afterwards, Abuelo offered to make me coffee with his little espresso machine. I had already had coffee, but he was so excited to make coffee for me that I couldn’t say no. We took them to the living room and watched American TV in Spanish voiceovers and it was lovely. It was a really peaceful way to spend the afternoon, and I know it will be a nice memory of time with my grandfather.
After my siesta, I went out with Valeria again, this time also with her boyfriend. I wasn’t too clear on the details, but I knew they would be taking me somewhere to sightsee. They ended up taking me to a sandy beach, which was incredible as the sun was starting to fall towards the horizon, but we didn’t stay long. We stopped at a harbor, crowded with sail and motorboats, to pick up another couple of their friends. We planned to go to a town called Vilagarcía, but first stopped at a bridge underpass where still stood the ruins of a Viking-era structure and a few replica boats. We watched the sun set over the river from the ruins before headeding to Vilagarcia.
TUESDAY// Ribeira
I slept in, and worked on my computer a bit before lunch with my grandparents, and then coffee with Abuelo. After our coffee, we walked to my dad’s apartment on the beach. It was really pretty space with a nice view, but thats all it is– space. There’s currently no furniture, nor any completed kitchen, so I hope it is finished soon so it can be used.
On the way back to Abuelo’s home, he wanted to show me something. We walked into a warehouse along the harbor, and inside were various people milling around, observing, buying, and selling at the fish auction. The fish lay in shallow plastic bins, spread all over the floor. As we walked around, Abuelo explained that these were the day’s catch. Many of them were very fresh– like still moving fresh. It was a little weird, but I’m glad Abuelo brought me. It’s nice when he wants to show me cool things in Ribeira.
When we got home, we picked up Abuelita and went to visit my father’s godmother, Mercedes. Mercedes’ husband was Abuelo’s best friend, until he passed. The entire family was home, and I remembered meeting them when I was young. Everyone spoke Spanish, so I tried to follow along best I could, until Mercedes’great niece Sara came home. Sara is 22, and studies medicine in Barcelona, and speaks English! We had a short conversation, and then she offered to take me out later so we could talk more. I was really pleased, because she offered rather than my Abuelita suggesting it, so it felt genuine.
We ended up going to BOTTER, where I had been a few times before, but I didn’t mind. Sara ran into some friends, but they had already been there a while so they didn’t stay long. Sarah and I talked about school, family, the election, relationships, and traveling, and it was so nice to have a complex conversation with someone there. We had a really nice time and agreed to meet again the next day to see some sites around Ribeira.
WEDNESDAY // Ribeira
Today was Abuelo’s 79th birthday! In the morning, he and I walked to Uncle Manny’s apartment, also on the coast but in the opposite direction of my father’s apartment. It was nice to revisit and remember my last stay there, and it’s very much an option if I want to return with some friends. On the way back, we watched the fishing boats until Abuelo told me he was thirsty as asked if I wouldn’t mind stopping at Bulebar for some wine. It was 13:00. We were only there a little while before Abuelo saw his best friend Manuel outside, and motioned for him to join us. Manuel was there with his grandson, a 7 month old baby. He was so pretty– such long eyelashes! Noticing that I was playing with the baby, Manuel asked if I wanted to hold him. He was so curious, reaching out to try and grab anything and everything (including my hair!) but he was pretty calm and well-behaved as long as I directed his focus to his toys.
After lunch, I spent time with Sara again. First, we visited a beach that she visited a lot as a child. The waves were a lot rougher here, and the sand was a pretty cream color, with a bit of peach. The forest, the waves, the boulders, sand dunes, and sea grass all formed a beautiful landscape. It was cloudy and drizzling, but still felt peaceful. We climbed a lookout tower to get a better view, but didn’t stay long once we felt the structure swaying in the wind.
After that, we drove to a lighthouse near Corrubedo. Here, the waves were really big, crashing against the rocks to spray sea foam upwards. Sara said the water looked like cream, and she was exactly right. It was pretty cold so we didn’t stay long. We then went to a café to warm up with hot chocolates before I had to get home to pack. It was a really nice day, and I really enjoyed Sara;s company. It was so cool to see that we had so much in common, even though we were from very different backgrounds. She invited me to visit her in Barcelona in February, and I’m really going to try to go!
THURSDAY //
The trip home was long– 20 hours!– and I had plenty of time to reflect on my trip to Spain. I learned a lot myself, and it was nice to reacquaint myself with the country of my heritage.