MONDAY // journal workshops
Monday was a series of visual journal workshops. We received instructions on graphic journal, urban design journal, and watercolor journal techniques and style. We were then sent out into Copenhagen to try to practice what we had just learned.
The workshops were really helpful, and getting to slow down and just observe and paint my surroundings was a lovely experience. In the evening, I went on a run by myself in Copenhagen for the first time. I let myself get a little lost and explored the area, matching my pace to the energy of the city. I found a new favorite route, and some great spots for sketching. It was a great addition to an already inspiring day, and I couldn’t wait to get home to paint, which was motivation to run faster!
Still feeling inspired, I decided to try the graphic journal style. My pages turned out more like a scrapbook than a graphic design, but I’m happy with the result!
TUESDAY // local tour
Tueaday we took a day trip to a few sites closer to Copenhagen. The first stop was Bagsværd Kirke, a church on the northern outskirts of Copenhagen. The design celebrates the building materials– plain wood, concrete, exposed bulbs, glass and steel. The raw materiality makes the space feel honest and reverent, and very appropriate for a church. The design is very open and allows for a ton of light to filter through, lending a sense spirituality to the space.
Next we went to the Maritime Museum of Denmark in Helsingør, designed by Bjarke Ingels Group. The museum was designed to fit in an old shipbuilding pit, so it was sub-surface, but not underground. The direct juxtaposition of the old, rusting, shipbuilding pit with contemporary design and materials is very striking. Unfortunately, the interior is not as impressive. The architecture is incredibly interesting, and responds well to the site, but the circulation of the museum is not clear and, unfortunately the exhibits do not feel in harmony with the architecture. This was disappointing to witness, but a good lesson in circulation patterns and program purpose.
Next, we visited the Louisiana Museum, located on the shore of the Øresund Sound in Humlebæk. The architecture of the Museum is as impressive as the art it houses. The low roof and horizontal planes of the east wing building were Japanese in style, which was confusing, until after Wednesday. Mixing of styles, however, is typical of Denmark, and appropriate in a museum setting. The outdoor spaces were breathtaking as well. How does the vegetation I see in Florida exist in Denmark? And yet, the beach reminded me of Maine’s rocky coast. Somehow, this place reminded me of home, and made me determined to never again live far from the ocean.
WEDNESDAY // chairs, etc.
Wednesday I had the day off, so Mads and I went to the Design Museum Danmark. It’s a small museum, featuring a variety works for the Danish Arts and Crafts movement– applied art, such as pottery, furniture, fashion, and textiles.
The first exhibit was Japanese art, and then Japanese inspired Danish art. I hadn’t realized how deeply Danish artists had been influenced by the Japanese– i really had trouble telling the two apart, which speaks to the level to which Danish artists mastered Japanese aesthetics and technique.
The other particularly notable exhibit was the Danish Design Nu, of modern to contemporary Danish furniture. There were a lot of chairs that I wasn’t allowed to sit on, but the experience was great because Mads knows so much about Danish culture and design. I honestly didn’t have to read any of the descriptions of the works– I just let him share what he knew. It was really lovely. We had a great time learning from and about each other, while still having fun and making jokes.
After seeing all the exhibits, we walked through the museum’s courtyard. There were these huge, old trees and the entire area was incredible quiet. It was hard to believe we were in the middle of Copenhagen’s inner city.
On the walk back, Mads brought me to see Amalienborg Square, framed by the four symmetrical wings of the Amalienborg palace, and just beyond that, the opera house designed by Henning Larson, as I hadn’t been there before. The juxtaposition between the monumental, classical architecture and the extremely modern opera house was astounding.
THURSDAY // core course week tour
7:30 am, be at the bus for architecture course tour week.
I’m so glad my roommates knew where we had to meet.
I was nervous. It seemed like everyone in my travel group knew each other already– I quickly learned that nearly half of them all attended the same school, CalPoly. But to my surprise, they were very inclusive and friendly, and I’m happy to have met new people in my program. Being in the arts LLC is amazing and I wouldn’t trade it for any other type of housing, but it’s really cool to spend time with other architects. I am surrounded by incredibly talented individuals.
Our first stop was the Trapholt Museum in South Jutland. Søren (our guide/chaperon) gave us a quick tour of the Danish furniture exhibit before leaving us to explore and sketch on our own. Truthfully, I did not like this museum. The exhibit layouts were crowded and confusing– there was a huge emphasis on a “Make your own Exhibit” program, in which visitors could digitally design their mixed exhibit of paintings and sculpture and furniture, similar to existing layouts.Bright red and black background walls added to the feeling of claustrophobia. I escaped outside at the first opportunity, and painted the trees instead.
Next, we visited a castle called Koldinghus in Kolding. Danish soldiers guarded the fortress until Spanish soldiers burned it down. It was accidental; they were partying too hard. (My ancestors were cool. Nice.) The restoration effort differentiates between the original structure and the new additions, but the two styles are harmonious.
We also visited the University of Southern Denmark in Kolding. It might have been because I was tired, but I didn’t enjoy this visit as much as some of the others. The tour guide was a little awkward, and some aspects of the student center seemed over designed. There was a huge emphasis on creating study spaces, but they seemed to go unused. The building was very successful in its circulation, however. There was a consistent flow throughout, and it was very easy to move from floor to floor.
After dinner, we went to fitness.dk to swim. There was a sauna and a hot tub and a huge water slide and we all got to pretend we were kids again. I exhausted myself and slept well that night.
FRIDAY
Friday morning we visited the Aarhus Crematorium Chapel, also by Henning Larson. One of the most beautiful buildings I have ever been in.
Our last stop was to Skanderup Kirke, in Skanderborg. Usually we are given the freedom to choose our own subject, but this time Søren challenged us to all draw the same perspective, from the back of the church facing the altar. He walked around and assisted us, as the particular view was tricky. My critique was particularly encouraging. He complemented my perspective drawing, and my watercolor of the crematorium for my success in capturing the light. He was surprised to learn that I was in Foundations rather than Design studio, which was nice to hear.
We hurried to Danhostel Skanderborg so that we would have time to go canoeing before dinner. We paddled in pairs along the edge of the lake and I was exhilarated by the wind and the water and the beautiful landscape around me.
After dinner got to make Snobrød by wrapping raw dough around a stick and baking it on the campfire. After its baked it slides right off, and you can stuff it with chocolate and other yummy things. It was very delicious, and even more satisfying since I had made it myself.
My heart is so full of love for this country and gratitude for this opportunity.
SATURDAY //
In the morning we went to the ARoS Kunstmuseum in Aarhus. This visit was particularly exciting, because I had written about this museum in my Arts LLC application. Atop the museum sits “Your Rainbow Panorama” by Danish artist Olafur Eilasson: a circular walkway rimmed in colorful glass panes, forming a rainbow. It was beautiful, and really fun to walk through. The museum follows the circular pattern with a large, wide, spiral staircase stretching to the 6th floor. We descended, and enjoyed the various exhibits– particularly the extensive collection of photographs by Robert Maplethorp. Also striking was a work of framed signs he bought from homeless beggars in various cities across the world. It was very powerful and humbling.
Next we walked across the street to Aarhus Rådhus. This building was designed it its entirety by Arne Jacobsen– from the structure to the tile floor to the light fixtures. Oddly enough, the only features not designed by him are some of the chairs, though his chairs are what he's best known for.
CONCLUSION
Don’t visit Denmark. You won’t want to leave.